Where did the last week go?

 Hi All!

We have had a great past week, filled with good weather, good boating and good friends.  We are currently in Georgetown, SC and have catching up to do in regard to this blog.

Last week while we were in Beaufort, SC, we were able to spend time with our friends from Michigan and also blessed to meet new friends.  We have learned the South Carolina Beaufort is pronounced "Bew'-fort" in contrast to the North Carolina Beaufort which is pronounced "Boe'-fort".

Before I get too far, we found a solution for the hole left in the dash after the marine radio was relocated.  We had a fun sign that we had been struggling to find a home for.  We think it's found its home, at least for awhile.  Installed with two-way tape giving us the flexibility to make a change later.

Problem:  hole in the dash

Solution: two-way tape and a sign

Another project we addressed while in Beaufort was clean up on the radar arch up on the bridge.  As background, there was huge non-functioning 2005 vintage TV antenna dome that needed to be removed along with two non-functioning lights of the same vintage and also our anchor lightbulbs were needing to be replaced with LED ones that draw less power.  While accomplishing removal of all these items, we discovered the bugs in South Carolina are NOT the same as in Florida.  In Florida we had "no-see-ums" and Thermacell worked wonders.  Well, Thermacell does not work on the little flying critters in South Carolina.   New friends from Coastal Fogg (a Mainship Trawler) saw us swatting away and suggested No Natz.  It works amazingly well and comes in spray and candle.  So if you are ever in this area of the country, you have to pick some up.

No Natz recommended by new friends on Coastal Fogg.  Thank you!!!!

In an earlier post, it was mentioned that seating since starting the trip has also been a challenge.  A trip to the local Wal-Mart in Beaufort via eBike and eScooter solved the problem.  Bert now has a set of bed-risers for his directors chair and has good visibility when driving from the inside helm.  Hilary now has a back rest that will work both when sitting on the table inside and also when sitting up on the bridge.  Best of all, the seat was 50% off in the clearance aisle of Wal-Mart!  We looked like something with a new seat strapped down to Hilary's bike rack for the ride home along with all our other purchases.

Successful trip home from Wal-Mart with new seat and double backpacks.
Bert also had his backpack stuffed to maximum capacity.

7.25" bed risers under the legs of the directors chair provides for good visibility for our Captain.
Bert no longer has to drive standing up all day. 

While un-conventional, Hilary now has a seat with a back for days spent navigating from the lower, inside helm.  The former home-office turned into navigation command center by day and is still the dinner table after hours.

We were able to take one day and drive up to Charleston with our MI friends.  On the way up we saw three F35s fly right over us.  Very cool and very hard to get a picture of from the backseat of the car.

F35

In Charleston, the four of us did a horse drawn carriage tour of the city, walked the City Market and had lunch at Henry's, established in 1932, and is Charleston's oldest restaurant and the oldest restaurant in all of South Carolina per the tax records.  Of course a bowl of She Crab Soup was the only choice as it was created in Charleston. Delicious!  For those not familiar, She Crab Soup is a seafood chowder named after the female crabs that provide the roe which provide the distinctive orange color.

Carriage ride in Charleston

The Charleston Place Hotel

We had a long travel day from Beaufort to Charleston on Friday (60 nautical miles) with tide and current working against us.  We had secured overnight dockage on the fuel dock at the Maritime Center and could not arrive before 5:00pm but needed to arrive before 6:00pm.  Most of their docks were destroyed in hurricane Helene so they have very little transient slips and only the fuel dock was left.  We left Beaufort at 8:48am and arrived at 5:55pm.  Go us!  Our captain is amazing.  Crazy strong current upon dockage on Friday night and an audience as the boat that takes a Friday night cruise around Charleston Harbor was starting to load passengers right next to us.  The very active shipping channel for Charleston Harbor calmed down as nightfall came so we had a good night's sleep.

Dockage way out at the end on the fuel dock at the Maritime Center in Charleston. 
Note the USS Yorktown in the background across the shipping channel.

 

Sunrise close up of the deck of the USS Yorktown

We had to be off the fuel dock at the Maritime Center before 8:00 am.  We departed at 7:56am for another long travel day to Georgetown, SC.  Much of the 56.4 nautical miles were through man made cuts and not near as windy as the prior day.  Current/tide worked against us again for much of the day and arrived for a two day stay just after 4pm.  

56.4 NM route traveled 03-29-2025

Vessel hailing from Charleston that we passed

Still not quite used to the massive 8-9' tides in this area.  
Note the boat is sitting in the mud at low tide.  In six hours, it will be up over 8'!

A barge we needed to pass in a narrow point in the channel at low tide.  
All navigated successfully.

This morning (Sunday) is gloomy and rainy which is why we are staying put today.  This afternoon we hope to get out and about to the grocery and see a bit of downtown Georgetown before departing again tomorrow.  There is some weather predicted for later in the day tomorrow and we plan to start early for another long day as the marina in North Carolina we'll be at Monday night closes at 4pm so we'd like to arrive before they close and the rain starts.

Hilton Head, SC: Weekend Respite

Friday we traveled 51.5 nautical miles (59 statute miles). It was a long day again departing just before 10:00am and arriving just after 5:00pm.  Like many Loopers, we are using the free Nebo app to track our daily progress.  Below is the recap created at the end of each trip logged.  The Nebo app also tracks all other Loopers using it so we can see live location and use a chat feature to communicate with other Loopers.  This is something new since we started our loop back in 2012.  Early afternoon we crossed from Georgia into South Carolina.

Our route on Friday:  a typical winding day on the ICW 

We timed our departure to coincide with rising/high tide to traverse a narrow area called Hell's Gate around 11:30am. Why these places get the names the do we'll never come to understand, but I can tell you, it doesn't help the stress level when planning and traveling. Just as we were approaching Hell's Gate, we saw a large commercial vessel exiting and at that point, knew we'd have no trouble getting through as it showed a 7' draft on the side.  We only need 4'.

Just after Hell's Gate, we weren't paying close enough attention and started following a track up a side river to a marina rather than where we were supposed to be going on the ICW. The "wrong turn" only cost us about 20 minutes, but the chart plotter was showing we were driving on land even though the depth finder said 12' of water beneath us. Our captain handled it like a pro as usual.  In the map image above around 11:53am you can see our small detour we had on Friday.

While it may not seem too exciting to some to cruise along between 8-10mph, you'd be surprised the number of navigation opportunities that arise along the way.  For those of you that are not boaters, one rule of the sea is that sailboats have priority over powerboats so when you come across one (or more) sailboats, they get priority because they are at the mercy of the wind.  As we were passing by a yacht club, their sailboat club was out and actively sailing.  These were very small single handler sailboats, but regardless of size, they get right of way and in some cases are beginners and much less practiced at controlling their direction that experienced sailors.  Mind you, not only does the captain have to watch and give right of way to all of the sailing vessels, this must be done watching depth and the channel markers to make sure we stay where we are supposed to be.  Fortunately, a guide boat affiliated with the group came in front of us and guided us across the sailboat club.  

The sailboat club we passed through.  We counted 26 of them.

The sailing club watch boat that guided our path safely through the sailing club.

After Hell's Gate, the slight detour and the sailing club, we weren't quite done navigation opportunities for the day.  The next one was a very large work crew doing bridge repair/maintenance.  As we approached it appeared the entire waterway was blocked, but as we got closer, we hailed the work crew on the radio, hailing them as "the work crew at the (insert bridge name here)".  They responded immediately and gave instruction on where we should pass through.  About half of the waterway was blocked by a barge under the bridge, but we still were able to get through, very slowly, so as not to cause any wake for the workers on the barges. It felt like we were going to touch the bridge and the barge on each side, but in reality there was probably at least 20' on each side of Make Me Smile as we passed under the bridge.

Bridge work crew we passed next to under the bridge

Upon arrival at Windmill Harbour Marina, passage through their private lock is required to enter the marina basin.  Inside the marina basin, there is no tide and it is VERY protected with homes on all sides.  Make Me Smile is 45' LOA with a 14' beam.  The lock chamber is 70' x 17'.  A snug fit, but still adequate room.  We locked up about 2' enter the marina.  Below is a view from Google Maps of the lock and marina.  The lock entry is the lower left corner on the map.

Windmill Harbour Marina

Lock Approach

Inside Lock

View looking out of the lock to the ICW

Mini crossing gate down and red light indicating no
pedestrian passage across lock when it is opening/closing.

We have enjoyed a restful weekend in the tide-free basin at Windmill Harbour Marina.  This is an exclusive, private, community that is removed from the hustle/bustle of Hilton Head's tourist area.  Although exclusive, the transient slip pricing was the most affordable in the area which is why we selected it.  We are directly across from the South Carolina Yacht Club and enjoyed free live music on Friday night as there was a wedding at the yacht club.  The bride/groom arrived at sunset via sailboat.

Wedding at South Carolina Yacht Club

There is a 1 mile loop around the marina basin that walkers enjoy.  We think everyone that lives here owns a dog and we have been enjoying watching all the dogs go by each day.  Hilary did several laps on Saturday morning while catching up with friends on the phone.

On Saturday, we ordered a ride share and got ourselves away from the boat and out into civilization for the first time in over a week.  We enjoyed a beverage and split a salmon BLT and some fries at a place called The Sandbar and then walked about a mile to a grocery store to get a few things and then ordered a ride share back to the marina to enjoy sunset out at the end of the pier.

Lunch at Sandbar.  It feels good to be around other humans.

Chilly and Windy at the end of the Pier for Sunset

Sunset view from the Pier at Windmill Harbour Marina

While we have been here for the last several days, Bert and been picking away at small projects.  The list of projects is never ending.  You'll recall at an earlier mooring he changed Honda generator oil and at another stop, Bert repaired the electric plug on the bow of the boat where we can plug in shore-power.  It has not been functional since we purchased Make Me Smile two years ago.  Now we have a choice to plug in shore power from the bow or the stern depending on how we are positioned in a slip and where the power pole is.  This is good as our power cord is only 50' and also avoids a potential trip hazard when plugged in to power in transient slips.

One project for this stop was re-locating the marina radio in the lower helm.  The factory location makes it impossible to see and change channels when navigating.  Note the new hole to the left of the steering wheel that will need to be addressed at some point in the future as it is cosmetically unappealing.  But the radio screen and buttons/knobs are now in clear view for the captain while underway which is what is most important.

Marine Radio relocation and associated hole to be addressed at a later time. 
We are thinking some sort of pre-fabricated storage cabinet.  

It is common for boaters to fly a burgee showing any clubs/associations they are affiliated with.  America's Great Loop and Cruisers Association has several burgees.  White for those completing the loop and Gold once the loop has been completed.  This helps other Loopers identify each other and show their level of experience with the Loop.  Somehow we forgot to put our burgee up as part of our departure preparations so for the first week of our trip, nobody new we were Loopers unless they were using the Nebo app.  We did not have the correct railing hardware to attach the burgee but Bert did find a way to get it mounted with a couple hose clamps.  Yea!!!  Necessity is the mother of invention.

Looper Burgee

Sunday afternoon, we explored the community and looked at all the homes on a 10K run/skateboard ride.  Beautiful weather in the low 70s and sunny.  Perfect for a run.  The community is so large, we were able to complete a 10K without leaving the front gate.

Today, Monday, we will leave Windmill Harbour Marina and Hilton Head.  We have a short 23 mile ride to Beaufort, South Carolina.  This afternoon we hope to catch a mooring ball for the night and then we have a confirmed reservation for Tuesday - Thursday at Lady's Island Marina.  We have three nights reserved to spend time with our friends on vacation from Michigan.

We are getting some feedback from readers.  We'd LOVE to answer questions if you have them.  Email us or add a comment to the blog with questions.

Kilkenny Marina, Richmond Hill, GA

On Wednesday, March 19, at sunrise we untied from Jekyll Island Marina as we knew we had a long day ahead of us, and a sketchy area called Mud Creek to get through mid-day at high tide.  We traveled from 7:45am to 3:30pm and completed 62 nautical miles (71 miles).  There were four other boats we traveled with for the majority of the day and we happened to be the lead boat for the day.  Boaters all seem to be on a similar schedule, sunrise to early/mid afternoon and we all untied around the same time from Jekyll Island.

We were the lead boat of four boats yesterday.

As the day progressed, one by one, each pulled off for an anchorage or marina.  The last hour or so we were solo and had a quiet arrival at Kilkenny Marina.  By late afternoon another boat arrived to stay two nights like us and today (Thursday) another boat arrived early afternoon so now there are three of us here.  Once we arrived yesterday, Bert was able to get all the salt washed off the boat while Hilary worked on her list of chores.  As we expected, a small bit of rain came through this afternoon and it was nice to be secured at the dock not boating today.

Everyone's goal for the day yesterday was to pass through a two mile stretch of the ICW called Little Mud Creek which is known for shallow waters.  The goal is to pass through on a rising/high tide, which we all did successfully.  

The ICW in Georgia is not populated.  Yesterday we saw no bridges, very few boats, a couple remote hunting/fishing cabins accessible only by boat and mostly a lot of grasses as far as the eye could see.  Very different scenery than Florida which was lined with many very expensive homes to look at as we traveled.  We did pass one commercial dredge barge without any issue.  It was a peaceful day of boating with nice weather and little wind.  We started inside the wheelhouse in the morning as it was cold, but by afternoon we switched to the bridge and were outside for the afternoon.  This was very welcome after driving two full days prior from inside.  We were both ready to be outside in the fresh air.

The one commercial vessel we passed yesterday.

Our view for most of yesterday.....nothing to see.

After 2.5 days of driving inside, we were both ready to be outside on the bridge.

When we drive from inside, the view is very obstructed.  Note the removal of the lampshade to help the view.  Hilary sits on the table on a couple pillows to get high enough to see out the windshields.  Not the greatest view.

We crossed four Atlantic Ocean inlets yesterday (St. Simons Sound, Doboy Sound, Sapelo Sound and St. Catherine's Sound) and thankfully all were calm and easy to cross.

Kilkenny Marina is in remote, rural Georgia.  There is little to no cell service here so we had a quiet disconnected evening.  Today we were able to get marina WiFi access which made it possible to call ahead and secure our marina stays for the next week.  We have dear friends from Michigan vacationing in Beaufort, South Carolina next week visiting their son at college and are coordinating our plans moving north around visiting with them.  

Docked at Kilkenny Marina.  It's perfect for us.

The tides are roughly 8-10 feet twice per day in this part of Georgia and the boat launch system is very different from what we are accustomed to in Michigan, Mississippi and Florida.  A travel lift picks the boat up off the trailer, rolls it back, and then drops it down to the water some 20' - 30' below.  The boats use their eye hooks on the transom and the bow to connect to the lift system.  The whole process takes just a couple minutes.  Very interesting boat launch/retrieval process to observe.  Excuse the obstructed view in the video, hopefully you get the idea of how it works.

Because we were not boating today, there was no alarm clock, Hilary saw an amazing sunrise over coffee, we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast of bacon, eggs, sliced tomatoes and toast.  Breakfast while traveling has been grits for Bert and a protein shake for Hilary. This morning to get cell service Hilary went for two separate 5K walks after breakfast before the rain.  The afternoon has been leisurely making plans for the next week and the sun is back out.

Sunrise out the galley window.  What a great way to start the day.

Hilary walked a 10K up and down this road.  

Beautiful old moss covered Georgia trees.

This is not a decoy, its a real bird hanging out on the piling in front of our boat.

Tomorrow we will not start very early.  There is a one mile stretch 16 miles north of our current location called Hell's Gate that is to be navigated on a rising/high tide which will be around noon tomorrow.  Tomorrow will also be our last day in Georgia.

We have a reservation in Hilton Head, South Carolina tomorrow night, possibly for three nights.  We go through a small lock to get to Windmill Harbour Marina and since we will be behind a lock, there will be no tide there.  A welcome change after the past several days.  We plan on traveling 56 miles tomorrow, leaving us an easy 23 miles to Beaufort, South Carolina by early next week.  We are a bit ahead of schedule.  😊

Goodbye Florida, Hello Georgia

 First and foremost, we are safe and our boat is safe.  We are truly blessed.

We have been on the move for four straight days and have the longest day yet in front of us tomorrow.  We will stop tomorrow night, Wednesday, March 19, for two nights and not move on Thursday as rain is predicted all day.

To back up a couple days, we last left you in St. Augustine, Florida, where we spent the night on a mooring ball in front of the historic fort.  

St. Patrick's Day was a rough day for us.  But all turned out well after a hard day and we are grateful.  We had planned for a short day, about 34 nautical miles, to a free dock in Jacksonville, Florida.  We departed late, at 9:30 am, with hopes of a short day and a free stay.  Less than one hour into our ride, we had very strong winds.  Sustained around 17mph and gusts over 30mph.  Our canvas couldn't take the exceedingly strong wind from the west.  Five panels of canvas on the port side (left side) had to be quickly removed so as not to be lost forever.  They were completely white with salt spray and nothing to do except carry them inside and lay them out on the bed to keep them from being damaged.  Challenge #1 of the day successfully navigated.

We arrived in Jacksonville at the free dock, around 2:00pm.  We had traveled 34 nautical miles.  Multiply it by 1.15 to get actual miles, so 39 "regular" miles.  Happily there was space on the free dock, but unhappily strong wind gusts and a strong current prevented us from a safe dockage.  During our attempt, we got caught by wind and current and collided with a parked vessel on the dock.  Full reverse of both diesel engines and full bow thruster was not enough to prevent the collision once the wind and current got ahold of us.  Lesson learned.  Very, very fortunately no damage to the other vessel and no broken fiberglass on Make Me Smile.  Thank goodness for rub rails!  Although we have two big white streaks down the starboard side, we have blue hull paint with us so at some point, we can self-repair.  

There was a less protected second free dock in the same park and we were able to tie there successfully.  We walked over with insurance information in hand to apologize to the vessel we connected with and to extended huge apologies.  They are fellow Loopers and were most gracious.  Again no damage sustained to their vessel even though in the moment it was very scary and sounded awful. Challenge #2 of the day successfully navigated.  On the same free dock were friends from Harbortown Marina on Merritt Island, Pat and Paul, so we were also able to say hello to them which was nice to see familiar, friendly faces on day three.   

"No overnight docking" in Jacksonville, FL

Pat & Paul's Boat at the very end of the free dock in Jacksonville, FL

Upon return to Make Me Smile and plans for a late lunch and an easy rest of the day, a local started hollering at us that the dock we were on was for the boat ramp and then we saw the sign "no overnight dockage".  So.......we untied at 3:30pm and continued north, in need of a new plan for the night.  After the canvas and the collision, Hilary's guts were in her throat and the heartrate was elevated the rest of the afternoon.  It took a lot to untie and figure out a new plan.  Our captain, Bert, never seems to be rattled and on the outside at least and is always cool as a cucumber.  By 6:30pm, we had traveled another 20 nautical miles to Fernandina Beach and caught a mooring ball.  The afternoon ride was on a falling tide, which was not our original plan for the day, and at one point we bumped bottom.  Unsettling.  No damage as the bottom was mud.  We just progressed very, very slowly.  Challenge #3 of the day successfully navigated.

Boat in a hoist at low tide.  Notice the water end and last starts at the edge of the pilings.  Folks base their boating around the tides.  We are learning.  The tide can be 7' - 9' where we are traveling.

Once on the mooring ball in Fernandina Beach, the work for the day wasn't done.  Bert had to change the oil in the Honda suitcase generator.  We were settled in with a generator running for electric lights and cell phone charging just at dark.  A nice sunset, steak dinner and long conversation with family closed out the day and the stress level came way down once settled safely for the night.

Time to change the oil in the generator so we can have lights and charge cell phones.

Sunset in Fernandina Beach on the Mooring Ball.  Peaceful and calming after such a big day.

Today, day four, was uneventful and we traveled 28 nautical miles over four hours and are safely tied up at Jekyll Island marina in Georgia.  No mooring ball, an actual tie, with power and water.  And we got off the boat and did a four mile run/skateboard ride late afternoon.  More details in our next post on Thursday.

Running/Biking trails are abundant on Jekyll Island.  Great to get off the boat for an hour today.

Our approach to Jekyll Island Marina.  Side tie on a wall.  Perfect!

Tomorrow we have about 75 miles, big day, and have a two night reservation at Kilkenny Marina.  

After 9 years, the Great Loop Hiatus is over!!!!!

 Hello Friends - 

It's been OVER nine years since our last post.  During that time we've been living on and working from Merritt Island, Florida.   So much transpired during that time, but our big news is we have resumed our journey on America's Great Loop!  To those that followed our first two segments in 2012 and 2015, welcome back and thanks for your patience.  For our newest followers, welcome!!! 

For this third and final segment, we are on new boat (at least new to us).  Her name is Make Me Smile and we transitioned from Simplified back in 2023.  Make Me Smile is a 2006, 400 Mainship Trawler.  Also noteworthy, in preparation for this final segment to Lake St. Clair, Michigan, where we plan to cross our wake in May, we both quit our jobs.  We are thinking of it as an employment hiatus, but many would call it retirement.  Go us!

So now that you have the highlights, lets' jump right in.  On Saturday, March 15th, at 8:00am, we said "goodbye" to our slip on Merritt Island and "see you later" to our friends on the dock that were gathered for our send off.  Part of our very special send off were three moon's, with MAKE ME SMILE strategically written across the moons.  Below is the PG version.  You get the idea.

Three Moons:  Make Me Smile

A beautiful sunrise for our departure

Our first day was smooth and uneventful.  We enjoyed watching a lot of dolphins on our first day and a few manatees too.  Several picture attempts were made, but without success.  The wildlife is often hard to capture in a picture.  The temperature was cool and we rode most of the day in flannel and sweatshirts and boy was it windy.   We traveled about 60 nautical miles and stopped for the night at Halifax Harbor Marina in Daytona Beach just before 4:00pm.  Our travels took us past the Ponce Inlet and the lighthouse.

Ponce Inlet Lighthouse

Once docked and settled, we took some time to get off the boat and Hilary went for a run to the beach and Bert rode his electric skateboard.  A nice 4 mile round trip before dinner back on the boat.  

Our night was restful and Sunday morning, Hilary went for a second run to the beach, pre-sunrise.

Pre-Dawn, Daytona Beach

Our second day was equally smooth and uneventful.  We knew there was a line of storms that would be passing through so we elected to stop in St. Augustine and pick up a mooring ball mid-afternoon.  Happily we were hooked just before the first band of rain came through.  We traveled 47 nautical miles today and just about six hours.  The storms have passed through and the sun was out and the weather is calm.  A delightful spot for the night looking at the shore of St. Augustine and the historic fort.  Stopping early allowed us to better secure our electric scooter and electric bike for the journey.  We are keeping them inside in the salon and out of the salty elements.  Inside, space is at a premium.

Mooring Field in St. Augustine

The Sun is Out in St. Augustine!

Tomorrow we'll continue to push north.  Our destination is still TBD, but it will be very close to the Florida / Georgia border.